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Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin, Cairanne

One of my favourite Southern Côtes du Rhône wineries is Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin, owned by the Alary brothers, Frederic and Francois. Both are in their early 40s and the next generation is currently attending school. The vineyards have been in the family for 10 generations. You can admire the family tree in their modest caveau. Somehow it must be in the genes of the Alarys to make good wine; their uncle Daniel Alary and his son Denis are another top producer in Cairanne. The vineyards of Domaine de l'Oratoire are on the St.Andéol hill, the winery is at the foot of the Vieux Village of Cairanne on the road to St.Roman de Malegarde. It is named after an oratory in the middle of their vineyard. They own 25 ha planted with very old Grenache and Mourvèdre stock. The soil is stony on top of a deep layer of clay with limestone deeper down. The Syrah grapes are grown on the north-east facing slopes, which are cooler and the Grenache and Mourvèdre grapes are grown on the hot south-west facing slopes. They don't use pesticides or fertilizer. Harvest is done by hand and wines are unfiltered without fining.

The Haut Coustias is made of 65 year old vines with 20% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre and the remainder Grenache (a minimum of 50% Grenache and 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre is required under Cairanne's AOC rules). Nose of blackberry jam and spices, such as cherries, almonds, cinnamon and due to the Mourvèdre a hint of tobacco leaves. Palate of ripe berry flavours, a hint of pepper and nutmeg with a long subtle finish. This is a complex, yet very elegant wine aged for 24 months in Burgundy oak barrels with no fining and no filtration. It is equal to a good Châteauneuf. Retail at the caveau: around Euro 14.

The Cuvée Prestige, is made of 100 year old vines, 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre. The 2005 vintage has a bouquet of red berries and leather followed by Provence spices and pepper on the palate with a long dense slightly tannic finish. Due to the 40% Mourvèdre a powerful wine with a lot of character. Needs to age another year or two and will hold 8 - 10 years. Retail at the caveau: around Euro 12.

Finally the Réserve des Seigneurs, made of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah. Made from younger vines (for this domaine younger means 50 years) it is less complex than the Haut Coustias and the Prestige. Sweet blackberry fruits on the nose, spices and pepper, great acidity and a smooth tannic finish. Holds up to 6 years. Excellent value for the money. Retail at the caveau: around Euro 9.

I am on the hunt for exceptional Southern Côtes du Rhône whites. I was told by someone to try their Haut Coustias white, but alas it was sold out. I asked them to reserve a case of the 2006 harvest. I have full confidence I will not be disappointed.

The Cairanne wines are actually pretty good buys if you understand where in Cairanne they are coming from. The top wines of producers like Rabasse Charavin, Oratoire Saint Martin and Daniel & Denis Alary - they have their vineyards on the St.Andéol hills - are on par with many of the better crus from Gigondas and Châteauneuf du Pape, but considerably less expensive. The vineyards in the plains below - the area is often referred to as the Garrigue - are of younger stock and less exceptional. But this is where the big influential growers of Cairanne have most of their vineyards: Domaine Brusset, Domaine Le Plaisir (owned by the Pierrefeu family; the patriarch was the mayor of Cairanne for decades), Domaine de la Presidente (headquartered in Ste.Cécile les Vignes) and Domaine de l'Ameillaud (with Nick Thompson at the helm, roughly 50% of their vineyards are in the Garrigue). Were it not for the Garrigue vineyards, Cairanne would by a cru like neigbouring Vacqueyras and Gigondas - this is what some of the "hill" vignerons say. The "Garrigue" producers maintain that Cairanne is better off selling under the CdR Village Cairanne label, pointing out the Vacqueyras situation, which has not really progressed after it became a cru in 1995.

Frankly, I don't attach much importance to INAO and their appellation system anyway. With its 300 plus AOC labels it is confusing to consumers. It also has the side effect of promoting mediocre producers whose vineyards happen to be in an AOC area. Example are some of the less distinguished producers in Châteauneuf du Pape. But the AOC system is a perfect fit for France, where statism and top down government are the rule.

Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin, Route St.Roman, 84290 Cairanne, Tel: 04 90 30 82 07
Caveau is open weekdays from 9:00-11:00 AM and 2:00-5:00PM

2006-09-20 | posted by Eve Collins | Filed under: blog/wine tastings, etc.

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