Domaine des Lauribert, Visan (Côtes du Rhône)
When we visited our friends Sylvie and Robert in Valréas a couple of weeks ago, they sang the praises of Domaine Lauribert again. In Robert's opinion they incorporate the new type of vigneron needed to bring the wine business in the area to the next level. Sylvie and Robert used to be olive growers, but living in Valréas they know a lot about vignerons in the Enclave des Papes, who is who and who does what, etc., etc. - the local gossip. No surprise, on our way back to Avignon we decided to stop over and do some wine tasting at Domaine des Lauribert. The winery is named after Laurent, Marie et Robert Sourdon. Marie and Robert have pretty much handed over management to their son Laurent; his girlfriend Isabelle does most of the selling at the caveau. On 54 hectares they produce roughly 2.600 hl, 75% Côtes du Rhône Villages, the remainder is Côtes du Rhône and Vin de Pays.
2004 Les Truffières Côtes du Rhône
For a Southern Côtes du Rhône this rouge is somewhat unusual: it is made of 80% Syrah and only 20% Grenache vinified separately. A pleasing bouquet of red berries with a slight hint of leather, a slightly fruity palate but with enough tanin and acidity to make it a refreshing red. Should be kept no longer than 2 - 3 years. At Euro 5,70 retail directly from the caveau a great buy - this could be your house wine; easy on the budget yet enough character to stick out from the crowd. It is a real hit with their mainly French and Belgian clients and I increase the score by 2 due to the excellent price/quality relationship here.
2004 La Carelette Côtes du Rhône Villages
This is their top red, a Côtes du Rhône Villages from their vineyards in Valréas. Made of 70% Grenache, a full bodied smooth red, nose of red berries and garrigue, less tanic than the Les Truffieres. A typical Grenache based red but with character. Sells at Euro 7,90 retail from the caveau.
2005 Fine Fleur Côtes du Rhône
Before trying the two reds we tasted their 2005 Fine Fleur Côtes du Rhône white, made of 50% Roussanne and 50% Marsanne. Both are little used varieties grown mostly in the Northern Côtes du Rhône to make white versions of Crozes Hermitage and Saint Joseph. A dry, crisp white, rich in flavor with notes of citrus fruits and minerals. Great buy at Euro 4,30 retail from the caveau.
The vignerons of Visan have a great reputation amongst French wine lovers. Theirs is a beautiful historic village in the Enclave des Papes, which is an exclave of the Département Vaucluse in the Département Drôme - a historic oddity going back to the 14th century when the region was part of the Papal Territories in France. The neigbouring town of Richerenches, an old Knights Templar Commanderie, is the truffles capital of France. If you want to visit their winery (Isabelle speaks English fairly well) drive from Visan on Rt.D976 north to Valréas. Approx. 3km before Valreas turn right at the 2nd sign pointing to Domaine des Lauribert. Address: Domaine des Lauribert, Haut Roussillac, 84820 Visan, Tel: 04 90 35 26 82.
On our way back Pierre and I pondered about the wine business in general. Not much different from selling cars or fashion. The consumer goes a lot by perception, trophy syndrome, fashion and in this context follows the stories created by certain wine writers, who work in collusion with the mighty importers and retailers. But, again, such is life and you better understand it and deal with it. This is a free country and subsidies by the big brothers - the EU and France - are being reduced. That's good for competition and innovation. May the best win!
