Restaurants in Avignon and Environs
Avignon is one of the most popular tourist destinations in France. It can get really crowded during the summer time. So if you have a chance visit Avignon during the shoulder seasons. April - June and September - October are really enjoyable. Avignon has a great number of quality restaurants but also some tourist traps. So it is good to know where to go and where not to go. I want to show you the places where we, the locals, eat.
We also venture across the Rhône to Villeneuve lez Avignon, the historic town, where many of the cardinals and high officials of the Papal court lived. Today a quiet, but fairly expensive residential quarter for the Avignonnais.
If you are only looking for restaurants with the stars and forks, buy the red Guide Michelin. You will find restaurants like Christian Etienne and the Hotel La Mirande (both close to the Palace of the Popes), where a dinner for two with a bottle of wine can easily run into the Euro 200 - 300. They are not on my list here. I want to recommend to you restaurants where quality ranges from good to outstanding and which do not bankrupt you.
Restaurants in France are generally open from 12:00 – 2:00 PM for lunch and 7:00 – 9:00 PM for dinner (best time to arrive: 7:30 - 8:00 PM). As most restaurants are closed on at least 1 day a week it is advisable to phone in advance in any case (the phone numbers listed below are local calls but in France you always need to dial the full number).
Reservations are a must during vacation times. Restaurants are listed by location in alphabetical order. Prices are approximate, the standard lunch menu is mentioned first, three course dinner last, wines not included.
Avignon - Rue St.Agricol & Rue Joseph Vernet
My favorite shopping streets in Avignon are Rue Saint Agricol and Rue Joseph Vernet. From Avignon's main street, Rue de la Republique turn left into Rue Saint Agricol and then left again into Rue Joseph Vernet. You can study the menu of all the restaurants I recommend and decide for yourself. Avignon has a great restaurant scene and quite a number of them are on these two streets.
La Cour du Louvre on No.23 Rue St.Agricol, located in a quiet inner courtyard, in front of the 13th century chapel of Nôtre Dame de Bethléem (an old Knights Templar church). A good choice to savor Provençal cuisine freshly prepared. Prices: 20 - 35.
23 Rue St.Agricol, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 27 12 66.
Les 5 sens located in an inner courtyard called Place Plaisance (near No.18 Joseph Vernet), this is a newcomer to Avignon. The appealing minimalist oriental decor and well chosen menu make for a wonderful dining experience. I recently had the Menu Confort for Euro 35 serving as main course "râble de lapin à l'ancienne sauce civet" accompanied by a light almond and beet soufflé. Prices: 16 - 35.
Place Plaisance, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 85 26 51.
Le Vernet in No. 58 near the Musée Calvet offers Provençal cuisine, menu changes everyday. Large plane shaded courtyard and spacious romantic interior in a historic building. Prices: Euro 20 - 40. 58 Rue Joseph Vernet, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 86 64 53.
Le Petit Bedon in No. 70 opposite the Axa Assurances building. Unlike the multinational venture of La Compagnie des Comptoirs a small, intimate place run since 2004 by Francine and Gilles Boulay. They offer traditional Provençal dishes, well prepared, the desserts are outstanding. The menu changes every day and adapts to the season. Prices: Euro 15 - 40.
70 Rue Joseph Vernet, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 82 33 98.
...... and if you feel like splurging, here are is a place where you can spend your money wisely; expensive but outstanding value:
La Compagnie des Comptoirs in No. 83 with a large inner courtyard and minimalist decor recreating an old French trading post in India. A great selection of French fusion cuisine inspired by North African and Asian dishes, intelligently prepared with that extra touch of innovation. Good wine list, especially from the Rhône valley. The two brothers Jacques & Laurent Pourcel and their partner, Olivier Château, opened their first restaurant near Montpelier in 1988. They have discovered a winning formula and have opened similar restaurants in Montpelier, La Grande Motte, London, Shanghai and finally Paris. They have set out to innovate the sometimes very traditional French cuisine. Prices: Euro 25 - 70.
83 Rue Joseph Vernet, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 85 99 04.
Avignon - Environs of Place d'Horloge
The Place d'Horloge has many brasseries and cafes; you can while away an afternoon watching the comings and goings and the beautiful people from Avignon and all over the world. But if you want to have lunch or dinner here .... beware of the tourist traps! If the menu is encased in plastic and multilingual and the waiter is menacing you in English, German or Dutch to step in: don't! On the Place d'Horloge I like the Brasserie Lou Mistrau (13, Place d'Horloge), one of the few places here frequented by us Avignonnais, offering typical light brasserie dishes, friendly service and reasonable prices. Good to take the kids for lunch. For more serious dining you need to go behind the Opera d'Avignon to Rue Balance, Rue Racine and Rue St.Etienne, all of them close together.
Brunel & Mesclun on 46 Rue Balance, just East of the Palais des Papes, run by the enterprising Robert Brunel. Brunel is open for lunch and dinner, Mesclun only for lunch. For lunch the dishes are Brasserie style, for dinner there is a more elaborate menu. Traditional regional food at reasonable prices; good value for your money. Prices: 16 - 30.
46 Rue Balance, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 85 24 83.
La Fourchette on 17 Rue Racine, one of our favourites; my husband Pierre goes there once in a while for business lunches. Unfortunately they are closed Saturdays and Sundays. You definitely need a reservation here - even for lunch. A wide choice of carefully prepared French dishes with prices which will not burn a hole in your pocket. Prices: Euro 25 - 35. 17 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 85 20 93.
Le Brigadier du Theatre on 17 Rue Racine right next to La Fourchette, an intimate small restaurant with lots of red decor, offering traditional Provençal cuisine, superb desserts and gentle service. Prices: Euro 25 - 35. 17 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 82 21 19.
L'Isle Sonnante on 7 Rue Racine, a small, elegant restaurant run sine 2003 by the Chevtchenko husband and wife team, it offers serious Provençal cooking and a small but well chosen Côtes du Rhône wine list. Very intimate place with nice decor and service. Prices: Euro 25 - 35. 7 Rue Racine, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 82 56 01.
La Petit Peche on 13 Rue St.Etienne, around the corner of La Fourchette, a tiny little restaurant specializing in seafood, freshly prepared and at very reasonable prices. Prices: Euro 14 - 25. 13 Rue St.Etienne, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 86 02 46.
Bel Ami on 14-16 Rue du Limas, a side street off Rue St.Etienne near Place Crillon. An elegant restaurant, one of those where you can buy antiques and other decorative items, which are part of the interior. Similar to Halcyon on Smith Street in my old neigborhood in Brooklyn (I have been told that Halcyon has moved to Dumbo). Hearty regional cuisine and pleasant service. Prices: 25 - 30.
14-16 Rue du Limas, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 89 70 69.
...... here is one for deep pockets, but definitely worth the money:
La Vieille Fontaine, the elegant restaurant in the Hotel d'Europa on 12 Place Crillon. If you need that special place in grand setting in order to propose to your loved one or celebrate your silver wedding anniversary, this is definitely the place. Chef Bruno d'Angelis reportedly has Michelin star ratings, I don't know how many stars as I don't buy the guide. Refined and creative Provençal cuisine and a great wine list await you here. Expect to spend at least Euro 100 per person for dinner.
12 place Crillon, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04.90.14.76.76.
Avignon - Rue Galante
Rue Galante, running parallel (East) to Rue de la Republique, has an array of reasonably priced ethnic restaurants. Great place for a change of cuisine or if you just want a small bite.
Tapalocas on 15 Rue Galante, a rowdy bodega de tapas, full of students; great food and drinks and lively company. Efficient service but you might have to stand in a pub like atmosphere, sometimes even outside. Local artists show their works hoping for a breakthrough. Prices: Euro 8.50 for 3 tapas, a glass of wine and a small coffee. Otherwise Euro 2.50 - 4 per tapa. 15 Rue Galante, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 82 56 84.
Tanoshii on 8 Rue Galante, opened in 2005 to the delight of Anglo expats living in Avignon craving for good Japanese food like in London or New York. Good sushi and do it yourself grilled dishes. Friendly service, great place to have in Avignon. Prices: Euro 25 -30.
8 Rue Galante, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 85 59 43.
Xuan on 6 Rue Galante, my favorite Chinese place in Avignon, friendly, good Chinese & Vietnamese food, all fresh and creative. Prices: Euro 15 -35. 6 Rue Galante, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 86 03 75.
Avignon - For Anglo Expats
Le Simple Simon an English tea room in Rue Petite Fusterie (runs parallel to Rue Racine further South). This place is an institution since the 70s, flowery tablecloths and lots of British memorabilia, including a Victorian sketch of "A Day in Brighton", a picture of the Queen and a grandfather clock. Great selection of teas and delicious cakes. Definitely the place to have cream tea with scones and jam. Pierre, my husband, and I go there if I have an attack of French culture fatigue. Prices are a bit steep, but servings are generous.
26 Rue de la Petite Fusterie, 84000 Avignon, Tel: 04 90 86 62 70.
Villeneuve lez Avignon
Take one of the two bridges across the Rhône, drive up to "Ville Historique" and park your car. If you go there for dinner and you stay overnight in Avignon better take a cab. Alcohol controls are frequent. On your way to Villeneuve you might be tempted to visit the Ile de la Barthelasse. For us Avignonnais the favourite place for jogging; the city's rowing club is there. For tourists the best place to take pictures of the Palais des Papes in late afternoon. Unrivaled view! Unfortunately no longer a place for lunch or dinner. Forget Le Bercail, which is recommended in many guide books. Shows you that they are outdated. The island suffers from periodic flooding. Tough to run a business under these conditions.
Aubertin in the town center under the arcades on Rue de l'Hôpital close to the main street, Rue de Montolivet. Charming historic setting, outstanding regional cuisine with an innovative touch. Excellent wine list. Worthwhile to make the trip across the river. Prices: Euro 35 -50.
1 Rue de l'Hôpital, 34000 Villeneuve lez Avignon, Tel: 04 90 25 94 84.
Le Prieure on Place du Chapitre, off Rue de Montolivet, housed in the 14th century priory building, offers outstanding French cuisine, very creative and highly regarded by us Avignonnais. You will spend around Euro 100 per person for dinner, but it's worthwhile. Prices: Euro 40 - 100.
7 Place du Chapitre, 34000 Villeneuve lez Avignon, Tel: 04 90 15 90 15.
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