Restaurants in Aix en Provence and Pays d'Aix

Restaurants in Aix en Provence and Pays d'aix

Aix en Provence is the city in France where more than 50% of the French would like to live. It has a vibrant university body and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in France. It can get really crowded during the summer time. This combined with the stifling heat in July and August can make a visit unpleasant. So if you have a chance visit Aix during the shoulder seasons. April - June and September - October are really enjoyable. Aix has the best restaurant scene in the Provence. You have a great choice of French and ethnic cuisine in a large number of restaurants and bistros.

I will also venture outside Aix en Provence in some of the small villages. Some great choices there albeit not as many as in the wine villages North of Avignon.

Restaurants in France are generally open from 12:00 – 2:00 PM for lunch and 7:00 – 9:00 PM for dinner (best time to arrive: 7:30 - 8:00 PM). As most restaurants are closed on at least 1 day a week it is advisable to phone in advance in any case (the phone numbers listed below are local calls but in France you always need to dial the full number).

Reservations are a must during vacation times. Restaurants are listed by location in alphabetical order. Prices are approximate, the standard lunch menu is mentioned first, three course dinner last, wines not included.

Top choice - if you really want to splash:

Le Clos de la Violette, the top choice by all standards. Hymns have been written about this restaurant located just outside the historic center, on Avenue de la Violette (easy walk from Pasteur or Signoret parking). Elegant setting inside and on a shaded terrace. Master chef Jean-Marc Banzo offers creative dishes, wonderful in their simplicity and use of local produce, but with an unsurpassed refinement. A must if you want to experience Provençal cuisine at its highest level. To be on the safe side: make reservations weeks in advance - before you start your trip. 10 Avenue de la Violette, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 23 30 71.

Villa Gallici is no doubt the best hotel in Aix if not the Provence. Their restaurant is equally top notch, refined, innovative but with a clear line. We were pleasantly surprised reading the selective menu. A limited but excellent choice of fish and meat dishes. They turned out to be outstanding and we left the table in peace with ourselves and the world. Avenue de la Violette, Impasse des Grands Pins, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 23 29 23.

Next on our list:

The following restaurants (listed by alphabet not preference) are among the best the Provence has to offer. Notably absent in our list is the Château de la Piolene due to its location outside of the Aix city centre in a busy commercial district behind a Decathlon and a car dealership, definitely a location you do not need to visit during your vacation. The list is not yet complete, I simply did not have a chance to finish my rounds. For example I have not yet covered the highly regarded La Dolce Vita and l'Aixquis.

L'Amphitryon on Rue Paul Doumer close to the Cours Mirabeau, a traditional setting with a wonderful interior courtyard for outdoor dining. The food is delightful, follows the season and the occasional touch of fusion cuisine give the carefully prepared classic French dishes a refreshing touch. The place to go for a great dining experience. 2-4 Rue Paul Doumer, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 54 10.

La Madeleine an elegant restaurant on Place des Precheurs. Well known in Aix for their fish dishes (they also offer meat and vegetarian dishes). They specialize in shell fish and do an outstanding Bouillabaisse (when you make your reservation request it). Prices Euro 25 - 40. 4 Place des Precheurs, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 28 02.

Chez Maxime, nicely prepared Provençal dishes, they excel especially in the meat category. Popular with Axoises and tourists. Outside dining on tiny Place Ramus is shared with three other restaurants - great atmosphere on summer evenings. 12 Place Ramus, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 28 51.

La Chimère Café on Rue Brueys near Place des Tanneursis is one of the favorites of the Axoises. The restaurant is on three levels and its price/quality relationship is simply outstanding. Carefully prepared French and Provençal cuisine at its best. One of our favorites in Aix. Prices Euro 25 - 35. 15 rue Brueys, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 30 00.

Le Passage in a smartly renovated 19th century workshop, ultra modern style. A new concept for Aix, along the lines of La Compagnie des Comptoirs in Avignon, yet different. There is a 140 seat plus restaurant, a patisserie, a cigar and wine tasting bar and a cooking school. If you enter from Rue Mazarin, don't be fooled by the sign "Patisserie". Are we introducing modern concepts from those Anglos, which can't be trusted because of their mediocre food (as per Jacques Chirac in one of his less lucid moments in 2005)? Yes, this place could be in London, San Francisco or Sydney. But the food is authentic French, creative and innovative, just wonderful. Efficient and friendly service. Around the corner of Cine Mazarin Renoir - a cousin of New York's Angelica. 10 Rue Villars/6 Rue Mazarin, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 37 09 00.

La Rotonde a great place, hip and attracting a young crowd, of course only "les jeunes avec l'argent". A nice terrace, a great bar and overall very comfortable environment. The cuisine is innovative, Provençal dishes with a touch of fusion cuisine. Definitely a place to eat very well, to see and be seen. Prices: Euro 40 - 50. Place Jeanne d'Arc, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 91 61 70.

Le Verdun a friendly restaurant with an idyllic terrace under plane trees. You can get good Provençal dishes for a decent price. Low key, friendly service; they concentrate on the quality of the food here. Wish there were more like these around. You better make a reservation here, not because of the tourists but the many Axoises, who love this place. Prices: 15 - 30. 20 Place de Verdun, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 03 24.

Antoine Coté Cour, fine dining in an inner courtyard with a bistro like canvass cover. Good price/value, may be because it is off Cours Mirabeau. 19 Cours Mirabeau, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 93 12 51.

Chez Féraud, located in a charming Provençal house on Rue Loubon two blocks Northeast of Place Richelme. Offers traditional regional cuisine without any temptation of anything close to fusion. Their grilled fish and meat dishes are great. They prove that the traditional Provençal cuisine can be a rewarding dining experience. Because of the overall package - food, service, price - one of our favorites in Aix. Prices: Euro 21 - 40. 8 Rue du Puits Juif, 13100 Aix-en-Provence , Tel: 04 42 63 07 27.

Le Relais Ste.Victoire, in Beaurecueil 6km East of Aix, take the Route Cezanne to le Tholonet, from there 2km to Beaurecueil. Very nice property, peaceful location at the foot of Mt.St.Victoire. Maitre cuisinier Rene Berges offers an innovative and refined Provençale cuisine. Menu is according to the season as he uses fresh produce from the region. He is known for his game dishes during the autumn and winter season. Euro 25 – 40. 13100 Aix en Provence - Beaurecueil. Tel: 04 42 66 94 98.

L'Oustau de St.Marc, on Rt.D10 in St.Marc de Jaumegarde. Nice shaded terrace, traditional cuisine; a great place to dine outside of Aix in a peaceful rural setting. Prices: Euro 26 - 40. Les Verans, Rte. de Vauvenargues, St.Marc Jaumegard, Tel: 04 42 24 90 47.

Chez Thome in le Tholonet 6km East of Aix; historic hunting lodge once visited by King Edward VII in 1906. Outside dining under plane trees, Provençal cuisine, great place to relax on a hot summer night. Prices: Euro 25 - 45. Le Tholonet, Tel: 04 42 66 90 43.

L'Acteur, a well known fish restaurant on Rue des Tanneurs. Frightful decoration but the food is good and the service friendly. 15, Rue des Tanneurs, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 19 37.

La Sicilia Nostra, a quick gastronomic trip to Sicily after all the Provençal food. Appreciated by the Axoises for its excellent price/quality and genuine Sicilian food. 14-16 Rue Constantin, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 96 41 03.

More modest but pretty good value:

Le Zinc d' Hugo, a small restaurant just North of Place des Tanneurs, pretty rustic but they can do some wonderful dishes. Prices: Euro 15 -35, 22 Rue Lieutaud, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 69 69.

La Charlotte, favorite of ma belle soeur (sister in law); it is her idea of splashing on a student's allowance. Marie-Louise rightly pointed out that the food is good, the portions generous. The somewhat quirky surroundings make you remember the times when you were in your early 20s. But it is very popular with the Axoises, no matter what age. We had a great time there. Prices: Euro 13 - 20. Owner does speak some English if he must. 32 Rue des Bernadines, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 77 56. Between Rue Fontaine and Lisse des Cordelieres, a bit difficult to find.

Auberge des Michels in the small hamlet of les Michels near Peynier, 20km East of Aix. Rustic setting, friendly service, good place to have a pizza or a more refined Provençal dish. Popular with the locals. Owner speaks English. le Michels, Peynier, Tel: 04 42 53 02 83.

The Bistro & Café Universe:

There are many good bistros and cafés in Aix. Impossible to list them all. Here is a personal selection, from the famous Deux Garcons to l'Unic Bar for the budget conscious.

Café Deux Garcons, the grand old daddy of cafés/bistros in Aix. Cezanne hang out here. Period. That's the reason to at least have a cup of noir here. I love historic places such as the "Deux G". Needless to say that I hear more German, Dutch, Italian and English than French. But under new management the Deux G has come back and offers some pretty good bistro food. Increasingly locals have been sighted to sit inside and enjoy the meals. Great to see such a traditional bistro finding its roots again! 53 Cours Mirabeau, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 00 51.

Café Bastide du Cours , a trendy brasserie, our top choice on Cours Mirabeau. Well prepared bistro type meals at reasonable prices. You will love the food, the friendly service and can watch the lively scene on Cours Mirabeau. 43-47 Cours Mirabeau, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 10 06.

Léopold, the brasserie of the Hotel Saint-Christophe close to the Rotonde. A trendy brasserie with 30s decor, many young people, excellent, innovative bistro food and reasonable prices. This and Café Bastide du Cours are our favorite bistros in Aix. 2 Avenue Victor Hugo, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 01 24.

l'Unic Bar, another one of Marie-Louise's favorites. Needless to say it passes her price/quality hurdle, i.e. acceptable for small pockets. A favorite place for breakfast after a long night out. The Petit Dejeuner at Euro 5 is unbeatable. A great location to watch people as the café overlooks the daily fruit market on Place Richelme, which has operated here for over 450 years. 40 Rue Vauvernargues (Place Richelme), 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 96 38 28.

Happy Days Café, just in case the l'Unic is full. Equally good we were told by Marie-Louise. Why does she prefer l'Unic Bar? Because! Place Richelme, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 21 02 35.

Ethnic Treasures:

As an Anglo living in the Provence you yearn for some ethnic food sooner or later. Arab, African, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indian, anything. Understandably most foreign visitors want to experience French food. But for us living here a change once in a while is welcome. So here are my favorite ethnic restaurants in Aix; over time this category will expand. Absent from my list is the much heralded Cay Tam, a Vietnamese restaurant. I was not impressed, the food is good but they seem to have gotten the airs after some good reviews, especially in terms of prices.

Le Riad, elegant Moroccan restaurant in a historic townhouse with a charming inner courtyard on Rue Lieutaud North of Place des Tanneurs. Moroccan food at its best, our favorite in town. Delicious desserts. Very friendly easy going service. Prices Euro 28 - 50. 21 Rue Lieutaud, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 15 70.

Le Jasmin, a gem from ancient Persia. This small restaurant with a charming shaded terrace is popular with the Axoises. Persian cuisine is one of the most refined in the world and Le Jasmin proves it. 6 Rue de la Fonderie, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 05 89 (Eastern edge of old Aix, just before you reach Boulevard Carnot).

Antioche, the Turkish-Lebanese owners offer a very limited menu, but dishes are well prepared and the service is easy going and friendly. The lunch menu at Euro 10 is unbeatable. They have two locations now, the tiny old restaurant with outside tables on Rue des Volontaires (near Rue de la Verrerie) and the new location on 8, Forum des Cardeurs restaurant row (a location we would normally stay away from - too touristy). 18 Rue Felibre Gaut, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 38 11 88.

Table du Mandarin friendly Chinese restaurant on Rue des Tanneurs in Aix. Comfortable place, easy going and good food. 9 Rue des Tanneurs, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 91 41.

Anh Dao, open air dining on tiny Place Ramus, a well regarded Vietnamese. 6 Place Ramus, Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 27 73 60.

Le Saf, ever tried African food before? Here is a good introduction with this well regarded Senegalese restaurant on Rue de la Couronne, South of Place des Tanneurs. You will like the exotic tastes and flavors. 16 Rue de la Couronne, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 94 25.

Au Petit Tahiti, this tiny restaurant is a great place for lunch. They offer simple but savory Tahitienne cuisine, which has French and Asian influence. I recommend the vegetarian dishes. Madame Helene from Papeete is not shy to teach you some Tahitienne dance steps, just stick around. 9 Rue Isolette, 13100 Aix en Provence, Tel: 04 42 26 38 32 (two blocks South of Place des Tanneurs).