Arles (cont'd)
Outside the Historic Town
Further west, a short walk outside the historic town (H), is the modern Musèe Dèpartemental de l'Arles Antique (1). The building was designed and built in 1995 by the architect Henri Ciriani. Of more than 600 objects on show, the most impressive is the famous bust of Julius Caesar. It was found by divers in the Rhône River near Arles in May 2008. It is dated to 46BC, the date when Arles was founded by the Emperor. It shows a lined face and a balding head, very typical of the realist portraits of the Republican era.
Retrace the steps of van Gogh and visit the Gallo-Roman cemetery, the Nécropole des Alyscamps (2), painted four times by him. Walk the Blvd. des Lices East, at the Tour des Mourgues (Mortuary Tower) turn right into Avenue des Alyscamps which after a left turn leads you directly to the cemetery. There are numerous stories and legends surrounding this cemetery, one of the most famous in Europe. The name is a corruption of "Elisii Campi" (Elysian Fields). Roman cities forbade burials within the city limits and it was common for the roads immediately outside the city to be lined with tombs and mausoleums. The Alycamps was Arles burial ground for well-off citizens from all over Europe for nearly 1500 years. It is located on the final stretch of the Aurelian way, leading to the city gates. Memorials range from simple sarcophagi to elaborate monuments. After St.Trophime's body was transferred to St.Etienne in the 12th century, the cemetery lost its status and fell into disrepair or was pillaged. Today only the wide tree-lined alley with its tombs leading to the St.Honorat church remains. Still, very impressive.
Our last pilgrimage in Arles concerning van Gogh is the Pont du Langlois (3), better known as van Gogh Bridge. Drive Blvd. des Lices West, turn left into Avenue Sadi Carnot and follow the signs Port St. Louis du Rhône until the second roundabout, where you turn left following the sign Pont van Gogh. The bridge crosses the Canal d'Arles. It's a wooden draw bridge, painted and sketched many times by van Gogh; it reminded him of the bridges in his native Holland. The bridge was destroyed during the 2nd World War, but has since been restored.
Cultural Events & Festivals 2008
The bull fighting season starts on May 1 with the Fête des Gardians, the parade of the cowboys of the Camargue. For more information go to the website of Arènes d'Arles.
The Sud-Arles dance festival in July features workshops and performances in the Théâtre Antique of flamenco, tango, African and Arab dances; check their program here.
The International Photo Exhibitions run from July to September, for further information check their program here.
To sum it up: Arles is a town you definitely want to visit, but you should choose your accommodation carefully. Most travel guides will talk about that "magical city with its numerous visitors, who come back again and again, and those who settle amidst the Roman walls and tiny streets walked by many an artist, musician or poet before they". We rather quote the noted Provençal poet Frederic Mistral who wrote "Arles ... , you are dreaming of your past glory". But lately some serious preservation efforts, both public and private, have improved the situation somewhat.
